Choosing how to get there

Getting to the Isles of Scilly is part of the holiday, but it is worth thinking about it as a journey in its own right rather than simply a means to an end. There are two realistic options from the mainland: the passenger ferry that sails from Penzance, or a light aircraft from one of the Cornish airfields. The ferry takes roughly two and three-quarter hours to reach St Mary's and generally sails once a day in the morning, with the return leg in the afternoon. Flying takes around twenty minutes from the Land's End area, or a little longer from further east.

Which suits you depends on a few things. The ferry is cheaper, allows far more luggage and gives you the proper sense of leaving the mainland behind as the Cornish coast slides away. The aircraft is quicker, less affected by swell and better if you are prone to seasickness, but it is more weather-dependent — fog and low cloud can ground flights, and luggage allowances are tighter.

What the ferry crossing is actually like

The route leaves the shelter of Mount's Bay, swings around the Land's End peninsula and then heads out into open water for the long run to the islands. That middle stretch is where you feel the movement. On a calm day it is a lovely, almost lazy crossing, with gannets, dolphins if you are lucky, and the islands appearing as a low smudge on the horizon long before you reach them.

On a rough day it is a different proposition. The boat is sturdy and perfectly safe, but it does move, and the difference between the outbound and return sailings can be noticeable — the morning crossing often feels smoother than the afternoon one. Bring a layer or two more than you think you need; the deck is the best place to be if you are feeling delicate, and it is bracing out there even in summer.

A few practical notes:

• Cars are not carried on the passenger ferry, so most visitors leave their vehicle in Penzance and walk on.
• Board early if you want a seat outside on the aft deck — these go first on busy sailings.
• There is a café and small bar on board, plus toilets, but queues build quickly once you are underway.
• Crossings can occasionally be cancelled in poor weather, so build a little slack into your plans at either end.

Dealing with seasickness

If you know you are susceptible, take it seriously rather than hoping for the best. The most common mistake is leaving it too late — travel sickness tablets work far better taken well before you step on board, following the instructions on the packet, rather than once you already feel queasy.

Once underway, a few habits help enormously:

• Stay up on deck in the fresh air and fix your eyes on the horizon rather than the water close to the hull.
• Avoid reading, scrolling or staring at a screen below deck.
• Sit towards the middle of the vessel, where movement is least pronounced.
• Eat something plain beforehand — an empty stomach tends to make things worse, not better.
• Ginger biscuits, cold water and a bit of quiet company are all genuinely useful.

If you are really unsure how you will cope, fly out and sail back — that way you get the experience of arriving by sea without risking the start of your holiday.

Luggage limits and what to pack

This is where the two options diverge sharply. The ferry is generous: typically a main suitcase plus a piece of hand luggage per person, with no strict weight ceiling, though you will need to manage your own bags on and off. The aircraft are much stricter, usually limiting you to around fifteen kilograms in a soft bag, with a small cabin allowance on top.

Soft holdalls are far easier to handle than rigid suitcases, particularly on the smaller inter-island boats. Pack for layers, wind and rain, and add swimwear and walking shoes — you will likely use all four. Anything bulky or specialist can often be sent ahead by freight, but arrange that in advance rather than turning up with it.

Arriving on St Mary's

Both ferry and flights arrive at St Mary's, the largest island and the administrative hub. The harbour at Hugh Town is the focal point, and on ferry days it is a cheerful scrum of luggage, trolleys and people greeting each other. Your cases are usually unloaded separately into a crate and collected quayside, so there is a short wait — use it to get your bearings.

From here, onward travel is straightforward. Inter-island boats and water taxis leave from the quay for Tresco, Bryher, St Agnes and St Martin's, and there is a small bus network plus taxis and cycle hire on St Mary's itself. Watch the tides: at low water the quay steps can be steep and slippery, and some inter-island services run from a different landing spot. Staff will tell you exactly where to be.

Making the most of your first few hours

Do not over-schedule your arrival day. Drop your bags, walk the short distance to Porthcressa or Town Beach, and let the pace of the islands settle in. Pick up a tide table and an inter-island boat timetable early — they will shape your whole week more than any restaurant booking. Book any boat trips or dinner reservations for the first night or two as soon as you arrive, especially in high season.

Above all, treat the crossing as the start of the escape rather than an obstacle between you and it. Give yourself time, pack sensibly, and the islands will do the rest.